A seasoned software engineer and tech writer with over a decade of experience in cloud computing and open-source projects.
Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant part of northern London.
This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.
“I am completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender quality.
It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.
It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and more balanced flavour.
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.
A seasoned software engineer and tech writer with over a decade of experience in cloud computing and open-source projects.